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If you're planning on using the WL556, you don't want to put it in your bedroom where the signal is weak. You'd want to put it somewhere in between where the signal is stronger, maybe upstairs hall, and then it will be able to repeat the signal for all of upstairs.
It won't work with IPTV just Internet. Homeplug is a good choice. If you use this, you'll need 2 units for internet and 2 units for IPTV. Also the usual warnings about 3-phase electricity supply. Homeplug also has a wireless access point model. Another option is to replace the UniFi wifi router with a stronger one. WR841ND is good and cheap or Mikrotik RB751U-HnD.
This may or may not work depending on what's blocking the signal to your bedroom. How big is your house? I'm using an Airport Extreme and it covers the entire house all the way up to the front gate. My Airport and UniFi equipment are located at the back room on the 1st floor. Cheapest & geekiest option and can be quite effective sometimes.
This post has been edited by soonwai: Feb 28 2012, 12:41 AM. If you're planning on using the WL556, you don't want to put it in your bedroom where the signal is weak. You'd want to put it somewhere in between where the signal is stronger, maybe upstairs hall, and then it will be able to repeat the signal for all of upstairs.
It won't work with IPTV just Internet. Homeplug is a good choice.
If you use this, you'll need 2 units for internet and 2 units for IPTV. Also the usual warnings about 3-phase electricity supply.
Homeplug also has a wireless access point model. Another option is to replace the UniFi wifi router with a stronger one. WR841ND is good and cheap or Mikrotik RB751U-HnD. This may or may not work depending on what's blocking the signal to your bedroom.
How big is your house? I'm using an Airport Extreme and it covers the entire house all the way up to the front gate. My Airport and UniFi equipment are located at the back room on the 1st floor. Cheapest & geekiest option and can be quite effective sometimes. Pls try put your unifi wifi router on higher place & without anything blocking surrounding the wifi router such as put on top of wardrobe or hang it to wall. Then try get a good usb wifi adapter.
I've same problem as you wifi router at ground floor last room and 1st floor front room cannot get good signal with the original built-in wifi in the laptop so I go find high power usb wifi adapter at low yat plaza and luckily i found 1 at sri computer brand name 'Engenius' model is 'EUB9603H'. Now my problem solved!!!
Giggs, i upgraded to unifi. My router is downstairs. I put the aztech repeater in my bedroom upstairs for my desktop(using LAN cable) and it works very well. Before putting the repeater, signal is one bar. After switching on the repeater, its full bars. Achieved max speed 4.7 Mbps.
Before trying the repeater i used usb wifi dongle, but reached only 1.6Mbps. So chucked away the dongle and straight use repeater with LAN cable. Tried home plug for iptv, no problem also but must be careful some electric appliance can interfere. My house is 20x70 and I'm using one router, Airport Extreme, for coverage all the way to opposite house balcony.
I've tested the WR841ND and it gives roughly the same signal range. My neighbor's DIR-615 reaches up to the front gate only. Both our routers are in the back room, mine upstairs, neighbor's downstairs. The internet and iptv for UniFi runs on separate VLANs.
From the BTU you can see one network cable going to the router and from the router, 3 ports can be used for LAN and last port is dedicated to the STB for iptv. They have to be separate so that's why you need 2 sets (2 x 2) of Homeplugs. There is a way (VLAN trunking) to run both VLANs, internet & iptv, down one cable but that's more complicated and requires additional equipment, at least a managed switch, on the other end. As for Homeplugs, I'm using the Aztech 500mbps model, I think it's HL115EP but for iptv, the 200mbps model (HL110?) should be enough. Don't get the older 1gbps model, I had probs with it. Disconnection, not stable.
My suggestion for the router, why not try the WR841ND (RM80-) first? Replace the DIR-615 with it and it might be strong enough to reach your bedroom. It's a better router too if you have multiple people using the net at the same time or if you torrent. If you know someone with one then test first.
This post has been edited by soonwai: Feb 29 2012, 07:33 PM. I try this adapter and work quite well for me. Router is normal Dlink 615 which is located on ground floor, while the TP LInk adapter is located on the first floor. Kinda Straight forward set up for tech dummy like me. Signal strength is about 70 to 90% plus plus and connected at 300mbps speed ( as shown by the software ).
Of course, actual internet speed is limited by your line speed from TM such at 5mb. TP-Link TL-WN822N 300Mbps High Gain Wireless N USB Adapter Review:- Please read more reviews of this unit on the internet before u decide to buy one.
BTW, I am not a reseller, and hope it is of any help here. I bought another unit after trying the first one. I was supposed to buy a repeater last month, but after going through some forums, I notice there are many complaints esp on the Aztech ones. So I decided not to buy. The other old method ( as I understand ) is to try an old router with DDWRT Bridge? Too advance for me and could be trying at later stage.
Since I an happy with the TP adapter, so no hurry to try this connection. It works well for me, but might not do the same for u. And I put this up just for sharing purpose. This post has been edited by SKY 1809: Mar 3 2012, 12:35 PM.
. Start. Prev. 1. Introduction Updated 11/21/17: eero, Deco specs corrected Updated 9/29/17: Inside section added It's been almost a year since the and the follow-on review that A lot has changed since then.
The industry seems to have settled on 'Wi-Fi System' as a better way to refer to this new breed of products designed to blanket your home with fast, seamless Wi-Fi. But, more importantly, a slew of new products have appeared, all aiming to unseat, which currently sits at the top of the market share heap. So, it's time for a long-overdue look at four new Wi-Fi Systems, including NETGEAR's two Orbi 'minis', eero's second generation trio and TP-Link's Deco M5 first mesh-based effort.
To provide some context, I also retested Google Wi-Fi, because, as the low-cost leader, it's putting the most sales pressure on Orbi. The Products At some point, I hope to go back and do individual reviews. But with the backlog that has built up while the kinks were worked out of the, that may not happen any time soon. So here's a quick rundown of key product features. Because their feature sets are very different from conventional wireless routers, I've created a different product category for Wi-Fi Systems.
So they have their own,. The feature tables below are taken from the Finder, which has more information than I've chosen to highlight here. Although there are two main types of Wi-Fi system—mesh and extender—both are treated the same in the Charts and Ranker. First, let's focus on what's the same about this group of products. All use multiple mini dual-band 802.11ac access points, that can themselves connect via Wi-Fi, to cover more area with higher bandwidth than a conventional single-point router, or at least that's the plan. Three of the five use a mesh architecture, in which APs (aka mesh nodes), can connect to each other to get back to the one node (the 'root') that's connected to your modem.
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The Orbis use a more familar router / extender (aka 'satellite') approach, where satellites can connect only to the router. The advantage of mesh systems is that they can reach farther by having each node relay your data until it reaches the root. The disadvantage is that each relay point (aka 'hop') usually reduces the bandwidth available to the devices connected to the farthest node. Although the marketing folks have played the usual games with class designations, these are all 2x2 systems. Both flavors of the 'mini' Orbis, which NETGEAR would prefer I call the Orbi WiFi System AC2200, adding RBK40 for the version with the desktop satellite and RBK30 for the version with the wall-plugged satellite, still have 2x2 client-facing radios. But the Original Orbi's dedicated 5 GHz backhaul radio has been downgraded from 4x4 to 2x2 to enable the mini's lower cost.
The takeaway here is to not let the difference in numbers fool you, all the products in this group connect to your devices with maximum link rates of 867 Mbps in 5 GHz and either 300 Mbps for Google Wi-Fi or 400 Mbps for the others in 2.4 GHz. WiFi System Product features The key difference in this group is in backhaul, or the way they connect among themselves to get back to the one node that's connected to your modem via Ethernet.
The Feature table above shows eero, TP-Link and Google nodes can be connected via Ethernet, while the Orbis can't. Yes, yes, NETGEAR says Ethernet backhaul is on Orbi's roadmap, but they've been saying that since the original Orbi launched and have yet to provide a definite timeframe. By the way, if you have Ethernet where you want to place system nodes, you should perhaps be looking building a less expensive system using conventional access points, like. Another backhaul difference is how it is managed. Orbi does this locally, while the other three products require a companion cloud service to do the heavy lifting.
Eero Gen 2, Deco and GWiFi can all continue to operate if the cloud service temporarily goes away (eero originally couldn't, but they fixed that). But each cloud service is an essential part of its product, making the products not very useful without it. Assuming Ethernet backhaul isn't an option, the more significant difference is in wireless backhaul options. Both Orbis and eero Gen 2 have a third 5 GHz radio, for a total of one 2.4 GHz and two 5 GHz. Both Orbi and eero dedicate one radio to the 5 GHz low band (channels 36 - 48) and the other to the high (channels 149 - 165). However, Orbi dedicates the 5 GHz high band radio to backhaul; clients can't connect to it.
Eero has a more flexible arrangement; devices can connect to any of its three radios. WiFi System Wireless Features Note all the products are based on Qualcomm silicon, although not all use 's mesh software platform. Google Wi-Fi is perhaps the furthest away from Wi-Fi SON, using a variant of ChromeOS and 802.11s compliant mesh routing. Eero is rumored to have a descendant of the open mesh B.A.T.M.A.N.
Advanced protocol beating under its off-white shell. Another glance at the Wireless table above shows all products in this group except eero support band-steering between the radios in a mesh node and node-to-node AP steering. But eero is the only one to implement, which makes for faster and smoother moves when a device decides it's time to look for a better connection.
TP-Link and NETGEAR support 802.11k and v and Google Wi-Fi supports no roam-assistance protocols. See the for help figuring out the differences among the three roaming assistance standards. It's important to note that older devices don't support 802.11r and some may have problems interpreting the extra information it includes in Wi-Fi management frames. This is why other manufacturers may have shied away from implementing it. The Pal test device, which uses a Qualcomm chipset not commonly found in wireless devices, in fact could not connect to eero's 5 GHz radios. Fortunately, eero was able to disable 802.11r on my network so that I could complete testing. OctoScope is looking into the incompatibility.
Wi-Fi System routing and firewall features are intentionally simplified and won't satisfy anyone who either likes a lot of router knobs to twiddle or needs routing features beyond reserving DHCP addresses or opening a few ports through the firewall, either manually or via UPnP. But in an effort to provide another reason to look their way, both eero and TP-Link's Deco have added features designed to keep you out of trouble on the internets.
These features are indicated by the Content Filtering, Rogue Device Block and Threat Protection attributes in the table below. Threat Protection means devices are blocked from accessing known-bad IP addresses/domains. Rogue Device Block means compromised devices that start showing abnormal behavior are taken offline. An example would be a smart plug that suddenly starts sending a lot outbound traffic, which would be sign it could be a slave bot in a DDoS attack. WiFi System Firewall / QoS Features It's tough sorting through the marketing-speak, but both eero's Plus and Deco's HomeCare both have Threat Protection and Rogue Device Block features. Deco's Trend Micro-based HomeCare also includes category-based website filtering. TP-Link includes three years of HomeCare in the Deco M5's cost, while you need to pay $10/month or $99/year for eero Plus.
QoS features are usually limited to Device Priority, which enables setting one device at a time as a 'high priority' device that gets first crack at available internet bandwidth. But Deco also supports automatic application-based QoS. Orbi supports neither. I probably should have mentioned up top that Wi-Fi Systems typically use iOS and Android apps for setup and management. A Bluetooth connection is also typically used during the 'onboarding', i.e.
Setup, process, with a switchover to management over Wi-Fi thereafter. While Orbi has an app for setup and management, you don't need to use it. You can do everything you need to do via web interfaces for both router and satellite.
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